Thursday, June 27, 2013

Bruges & Brussels


Shore of the North Sea
For my birthday weekend we visited Bruges and Brussels.  I have heard amazing things about Bruges and wanted to see it for myself.  Bruges is sometimes referred to as "The Venice of the North."  I hope to make it to Venice on day, but in case I don't, at least I've been to Bruges :)
We left on Saturday morning, made the five hour drive, plus added an extra hour sitting in a stau.  When we finally arrived, we checked into our hotel.  We stayed at this hotel, which was very affordable, located in a quiet, tranquil setting, a few minutes drive to the city center, and features an outdoor heated pool.  We drove to the train station, where parking is only €3.50/all day, and walked from there. 
Markt Square
We toured the city using Rick Steve's self-guided walking tour.  This was a good choice, as all of the "sights to see" were within a 15 minute walk of each other.  The tour began at Markt Square, which is lined with restaurants and is the home of the Bell Tower (Belfort).  From there we headed to Burg Square. This square takes you through several time periods, beginning with the Romanesque Basilica of the Holy Blood, to the Gothic-style City Hall, to the Old Recorder's House built during the Renaissance period, to the 17th century Baroque Provost's House, and finally to the modern-day, newly-built Crowne Plaza.  The Basilica of the Holy Blood was built by a brave crusader to house a few drops of Christ's blood he brought from Jerusalem.  You can read more about the relic of the precious blood here.   The Crowne Plaza Hotel sits atop some old ruins.  We went inside the hotel and into the basement where conferences are held among old brick walls and some artifacts on display.  Next, we meandered along the canal,over a bridge, past some museums, finally reaching the Begijnhof.  The Begijnhof served the purpose of offering housing and work to poor and elderly women, called Beguines, who sought to serve God without having to take the same vows a nun would.  The Begijnhof is made up of living quarters and a small chapel encircling a courtyard, all surrounded by a brick wall.  By the time we reached it the gates were closed for entry,  as were most places, so we headed back toward the train station.   We ended our walk by strolling under the shade of the tress along the path through the park, watching the swans play in the lake called Minnewater, or "Water of Love." 
View from the top of the brewery
Their first Coke
Early the next morning we got in our car and drove about 15 minutes to Zeebrugge, "Brugge by the Sea."  I wanted to see the North Sea, and so we got out of the car and walked closer to take a few pictures.  As we walked the girls and I collected sea shells.  We walked for quite a ways, but never actually reached the water.  The wind was blowing fiercely, which was causing the sand to sting at our legs.   We returned to Bruges, back to the city center, to catch a few places that we didn't get to see due to early closing times.  The first place we stopped at was De Halve Maan Brewery to catch the tour.  We have wanted to tour a brewery and figured Belgium was the place to do it!  The kids were pretty cooperative and enjoyed a nice glass bottle of Coca-Cola afterwards.  Next on the list was the Begijnhof.  Although we saw the grounds yesterday, the gate was not open, so this time we went in and walked the courtyard as well as peeked inside the chapel.  Our final stop in this lovely city was the Church of Our Lady.  Inside this church is the statue Madonna and Child by Michelangelo.  This was carved during the same time David was, out of the same Carrara marble.   Once I checked this off my list of to-do's, we were ready to head to our next destination:  Brussels. 
Begijnhof
 
You probably already know that Brussels is the capital of Belgium.  It is also the capital of the European Nation.  It is a big city, with lots to see.  Trying to save on money, we opted to use public transportation (buses and the Metro) to get around rather than the hop-on/hop-off buses.  Most of the sites are within walking distances, and the few that aren't are easy to reach by bus.  The town is divided into two portions: the Upper Town and the Lower Town.
Grand Place
We began our tour of the Lower Town in the most impressive square I have stood in, Grand Place.  We stood encircled by colorful building such as the Town Hall, King's House, Swan House (where a new bride and groom were waving down at us), the City Museum, and many lace and chocolate shops.   After grabbing a few pralines, we turned down an old shopping mall called Galeries Royales St. Hubert.We walked past the crowded restaurant-row, Church of St. Nicolas, and to the Bourse (stock exchange).  Our final destination was at the well-known Manneken-Pis.  Just as it sounds, the statue is of a little boy peeing, and has become an icon of the town, representing its low-key, laidback attitude. 
The following day was spent exploring the Upper town.  It took us awhile to take the subway to the bus, find the right bus, and get to the top of the hill.  The bus dropped us off at the bottom of Place Royale, a circular square.  A church, several museums, and the tourist info office centered around a statue of Godfrey de Bouillon on a horse.  We first went in to the tourist office to get a map.  Next, we took turns peeking into the  Church of St. Jacques sur Coudenberg.  After that, we grabbed ice cream cones for the kiddos and headed towards the Parc de Bruxelles right across the street, passing by the Royal Palace along the way.  It was here while sitting on a bench that we went from having a very relaxed and enjoyable day to making a mad-dash throughout the bustling city looking for our needle in a haystack.  You see, while the kids were eating their cones we reached for a wipe to clean the drippings off their chins, but our bag (which included our IPad) was nowhere around.  I had left it on a bus- a city bus in Brussels around noon on a Saturday.  We went on a three hour goose chase which took us all over the city, which I will spare you the details.  The point is that AMAZINGLY we got our backpack back, Ipad still zipped in.  Whew- a sigh of relief and we continued our city tour.  We returned to Place Royale, heading this time in a different direction.  We walked downhill past some fancy museums, wishing we had had time to check them out.  We walked through the Notre-Dame du Sablon Church, and then over to a nearby park, Place du Petit Sablon.    This park has 48-statues atop its wrought-iron fence and ten larger statues inside by a waterfall.  Once we rested a bit, we marched over to the Palace of Justice where we found amazing views overlooking the Lower Town.  Then, our tired feet took us to Tour d'Angle, a site known as the "Corner Tower,"  a surviving section of Brussels 13-century wall, which was disappointingly under construction.  Our final stop for the day was Parc du Cinquantenaire.  Celebrating the 50th anniversary of Belgium independence, King Leopold II had a huge monumental arch built at the entrance of the park.  It was quite impressive, maybe even more so than the Brandenburg Gate in size.  On the other side of the gate a festival was happening; we grabbed a bite to eat and a cold drink before heading to the car.  With the exception of a few museums, we were still able to see everything that we wanted to, even though it meant arriving at home at 2 a.m. 
A view of the Notre-Dame du Sablom church from the park
 

Parc du Cinquantenaire